Shrimp Rogan Josh
Bruce has started teaching knitting classes in Millerton, New York--which means that I now cook dinner on the nights he's gone.
Mind you, such a call to action hasn't rung in a while. After fifteen books, I am officially an observer of cooking. Oh, sure, I bring together the occasional foofy dish for a dinner party, like some froo-froo appetizer. But I'm hardly down in the trenches.
I still don't know if atheists pray in their fox holes, but I can assure you this writer-turned-cook does. What I make should be satisfying and comforting. So I do a lot of handwringing over the stove.
Which also means I've made a promise with myself to cut out words like quick and easy from my culinary lexicon. Both are knee-jerk silliness from food writers. Quick and easy is a take-out menu. Cooking is another thing entirely. (Funny that a guy with so many cookbooks under his belt has come to this revelation. Score one for you, universe.)
Last night, I set my mark on a rogan josh. The weather turned a little grim in the afternoon: dark clouds, a few blustery flurries. I wanted something warm and comforting. So I morphed the rogan josh recipe in THE ULTIMATE COOK BOOK (more about it here), pumping up the veggies--a key to getting more real food on the plate, we've found--but using the same spice mixture Bruce created in the original recipe.
In case you don't know, rogan josh is a warm (not spicy) curry from the Kashmir region. The name means something like boiling oil in Persian, a reference to the dish being cooked over the heat in plenty of fat; but if you increase the flavor of said fat, you can use a lot less of it--as you'll see I did.
First, I put together the curry mix in a large bowl: 2 teaspoons ground coriander, 2 teaspoons ground cumin, 1 teaspoon ancho chile powder, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon ground ginger, 1/2 teaspoon turmeric, 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves, and 1/4 teaspoon saffron. I then added one medium peeled and seeded, diced butternut squash and 1 large, peeled, diced rutabaga (about 1-inch cubes all around) along with 1 tablespoon macadamia nut oil. I stirred it well until the veggies were coated in the curry powder and set the bowl aside.
Don't have macadamia nut oil? Any nut oil will do--or even sesame oil. I wouldn't use a toasted nut oil because the flavor will get too pronounced, but a solid walnut or almond oil will do wonders. I'd also consider using avocado oil for a brighter finish. Just don't use any of the overly refined, tasteless stuff. It's hardly real food.
Next, I heated a large saucepan over medium heat, then added another tablespoon of the nut oil. (Again, just use the same flavorful oil here you used in the last step.) I added 1 large, chopped, yellow onion, reduced the heat to low, and let that onion soften very slowly, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes.
And now a little nervousness set in. Root vegetables? Not potatoes? In a rogan josh? And not ghee as the fat? What was I doing? I tried to trust my ten-year instincts--but again, I the writer, not the chef. So I took my frustrations out on some Ravel waltzes at the piano while I waited for the onions to get good and soft, occasionally jumping up to stir the pot.
After that, I stirred in all those veggies, making sure to scrape every grain of spice into the pot. I pulled the heat up to medium and stirred until it was all pretty aromatic, about 1 minute. Then I poured in 4 cups beef stock and 1/4 cup white wine. I brought that to a simmer, stirring occasionally--then reduced the heat to low, covered the pot, and went away to fret over more Ravel, stirring the pot once in a while, until the veggies were tender, about 45 minutes.
Finally, I stirred in 1 pound peeled and deveined medium shrimp, cooked for 1 minute over the heat, then stirred in 1 cup plain yogurt (I used a fat-free version without any chemical shenanigans), 1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Done. I covered the pot and let it sit off the heat for a few minutes to meld the flavors. We had it over short-grain, sticky brown rice--and I didn't fret one more minute.
Mark Scarbrough | Posted on
Thursday, November 12, 2009 at 10:59AM | in
Comfort Food,
Curries,
Fish and Shellfish,
Main Courses
comfort food,
curry,
rogan josh,
shrimp 




















Reader Comments (2)
Ahh......looks yummy.I think it'll taste delicious.
The food on the pictures look so mouth watering. I bet this is a world class recipe and dish.