Oven-Fried Tilapia Fillets

When we were testing the recipes and techniques for COOKING KNOW-HOW, we saved up the fried recipes for one weekend: pan-frying, of course, but also oven-frying, that (slightly) more healthy way to get the crunch without quite so much fat.

Saved them back? Well, yes. I suppose we were a little reticent. Frying? Even in the oven? Aren't we the guys who write the Every Day Gourmet column for weightwatchers.com?

Listen, we fell upon that food like Hollywood D-listers on gift bags, two fry-deprived guys who usually roast, steam, or grill everything because, well, you know. But there was no stopping us. We mowed through the stuff. Oh, we kids of healthier times. We've clearly forgotten the pleasures of the crunch.

Last night, we again made the oven-fried fish fillets from the book, one recipe in the overall, oven-frying section that explains the science and art of the technique.

Here's the kitchen shtick that itched our craving:

First, we heated the oven up to 375F and sprayed a large lipped baking sheet with nonstick spray. You could also use a little walnut oil or canola oil smeared on a wadded-up paper towel to grease the tray. Don't stint but don't go nuts. You want the thing slippery. (And thus lipped, lest everything slip to the floor.)

Then we put out the three shallow bowls on the counter and got them ready for dipping:

In the first, 1/2 cup all-purpose flour.

In the second, 1 cup low-fat buttermilk.

In the third, 1 1/2 cups walnut pieces ground to a coarse powder in the food processor, 1 cup yellow cornmeal, 1 tablespoon dried dill, 1 tablespoon lemon pepper seasoning, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon dried thyme, 1 teaspoon garlic powder.

Someone wrote me a scolding email awhile back about dried herbs, as if I, a confirmed old foodie, should know better. Indeed, I should not. Yes, I have an herb garden in the summer. (All two weeks of it in ye olde New England.) But dried herbs are actually much better for a range of culinary techniques: braising, roasting, grilling, and--yes--oven-frying. The concentrated flavors won't get whacked by the heat as quickly as those of their fresh kin. Sure, you have to make sure your dried herbs and spices are fresh. No bottles passed down from your great aunt, please! But fresh herbs singe in this oven-frying technique and are simply useless in a long, slow braise or a quick spice rub on the grill.

OK, we then did the three dip trick: took six 6-ounce tilapia fillets (a mere $3.50 at our local Stop-N-Shop for the bunch) and dunked them one by one, first in the flour to coat both sides, then down into a thorough douse in the buttermilk (before shaking off any excess), and finally into the seasoned cornmeal mixture to coat both sides one more time.

We lay the coated fillets on the prepared baking sheet and popped the thing in the oven for 25 minutes. I tried to be patient. But fried things were a-comin', something to warm the heart of any Texas boy.

We served them up with roasted plantains (another story entirely) and it was dinner. The book tells you how to do the same trick with chicken, pork chops, scallops, and even how to make your own corn dogs. But frankly, these crunchy tilapia fillets fit the bill. I even had some of that leftover Meyer Lemon Buttermilk Sorbet for dessert (see the post right below).

Comments

[Carolyn Jung]

MMMM, crispy food without guilt. I like that. So do my hips. ;)