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    Wednesday
    May062009

    Lemon Meringue Pie, Part 3: The Meringue

    We've made the crust and the pie. You can find out more here and here. Now for the topper.

    The best meringue, of course, is high and soft, even more delicate than any marshmallow could be.

    So here goes the technique.

    First, preheat the oven to 425F.

    Next put 6 large egg whites in a large bowl and set out on the counter to come to room temperature.

    Why? Because meringues are protein structures (those egg whites), a lattice that traps air and rises high. To form said lattice, those proteins can't be cold--or they suffer shrinkage. (Surely we all know the reference.) So crack those eggs, divide out the egg whites, and leave them in the bowl on the counter for 20 minutes.

    Afterwards, add 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar and 1/4 teaspoon salt, then beat with an electric mixer at high speed until the mixture forms soft mounds when the turned-off beaters are dipped into it--about like this:

    Now begin beating in 1/3 cup confectioners' sugar at high speed in 1-tablespoon increments. Add 1 tablespoon, beat it in, add another, keep going, keep beating, keep dissolving the sugar, until all of it's been added and until the mixture will form droopy peaks (called "soft peaks") on and under the turned-off beaters when they're dipped into that meringue, about like this:

    See the difference? The first picture looks like a slightly thickened foam. The second is more glossy; the meringue, stiffer, too.

    Now drop this mixture in small increments onto the pie at its rim, a few tablespoons at a time. It helps if you get in there and get your fingers dirty. Work all the way around the pie, sealing little bits of the meringue to the crust as you work your way around.

    Why? Because the meringue will tighten in the heat--and can pull away from the crust. Sealing it carefully now by dabbing your fingers into that gooey stuff will avert disasters later on.

    Once you've got the meringue in blobs all around the crust, start spooning it into the center of the pie in big globs.

    And one other tip: the filling should still be hot. That way, the meringue will cook from both directions: from below (over that hot crust) and from above (in the oven).

    After all that luscious marshmallowiness is on top of the pie, use a fork to make hillocks and valleys all over, taking care not to make rifts (which will become wider when the meringue tightens in the oven). If one of these rifts appears, just seal it closed with your fingers.

    OK, into the oven with the pie and let it bake until the meringue has browned in places, about 10 minutes. And that's it. Done. The best pie in the world. Take it out of the oven, set it on a wire rack, and cool to room temperature, about 1 1/2 hours. Then slice or set in the refrigerator overnight.

    One note: despite anyone's best intentions, a meringue may form tiny brown drops of sticky liquid on its surface. (In technical terms, it's "weeping.") The little bit of cornstarch in the confectioners' sugar helps absorb excess moisture, keeping the meringue dry.

    We're on the road tomorrow, headed to Austin. Join us at Central Market for a cooking class on Friday at noon. Or come on our to the Lake Austin Spa and take a class with us on Monday and Tuesday!

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    Reader Comments (2)

    It's interesting that you make the point that room temperature egg whites fluff up more. I hear your logic on a protein lattice, and I definitely want to avoid shrinkage too :), but I've always found the reverse to be true--that chilled egg whites fluff up better. Have you tried beating up egg whites right out of the fridge? Curious if you've compared one with the other.

    Dan
    Casual Kitchen

    May 8, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterDaniel

    Dan: Sure have tried it. And I believe the science here is pretty clear. Cream, of course, is another matter. It must be cold to whip properly. That said, the volume difference for the meringue is not enormous. Of course chilled egg whites would work.

    May 11, 2009 | Registered CommenterMark Scarbrough

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