All-Vegetable, No-Noodle Lasagna

We're closing in on writing our 19th cookbook (that's counting the two for the fussy celebrities) and there are a two things I've learned over the years: 1) some people like exact recipes and 2) some people don't.

I'm a recipe-follower. Probably the debt of a stern Protestant upbringing. I follow the rules, make it as it stands. If I make it again, I might alter the recipe. Maybe (after a glass of wine). Mostly, I do it by the books. Give it to me in grams and I'm happier.

Bruce never met a recipe he couldn't disregard. He rarely follows one. Even his own. Right now, we're cider-curing a bone-in, big-butt ham for a cookout this weekend, using the recipe from our up-coming book on ham (AN OBSESSION WITH THE HINDQUARTER), and yesterday I had to walk him carefully through the procedure to make sure he observed his jots and tittles.

Even when we're done recipe-testing for a book, Bruce will read through the manuscript and say, "Oh, you know, we could make that with thus-and-so."

"Did you?" I'll ask, a little exasperated.

"No, but you could."

So this post is for him--to celebrate one of his on-the-go, never-the-same-way-twice summer veggie casseroles. It's like a lasagna, tomatoey and cheesy, but without any noodles. And the recipe's going to be inexact. Very.

Start out by grilling up a mess of summer veggies. He used eggplant, zucchini, and summer squash--sliced them thin (the long way if possible) and put them on the grill over medium heat, turning once, until marked and slightly softened. Don't have a grill? Use a grill pan at the stove. Or put them all on rack in a baking sheet in a 350F oven, turning once.

"For how long?" I asked him.

"I told you: until marked and slightly softened."

Call it 10 minutes. But use your own judgment. Maybe as much as 15.

"And how many vegetables?" I asked.

"Leftover things off the grill are great," he replied.

I think there were a couple small eggplants, three medium zucchini, and a crook-neck squash or two.

Meanwhile, make a no-cook tomato sauce. Put about 2 pints stemmed cherry tomatoes in a large blender along with a 6-ounce can reduced-sodium tomato paste, some oregano ("be generous," he says), some sage ("be even more generous," he says), fennel seeds, red pepper flakes ("just a few"), salt, and pepper. Add enough white wine until the thing will blend into a thick, pourable paste. "About 1/2 cup," he groans when I ask. "It should have the consistency of jarred marinara." I try to say something about how that's not really in the spirit of a 19-book cookbook career, but he's back to selling something on Ebay and paying no attention to me. 

Finally, grate up about 4 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Now layer the 9 x 13-inch casserole. Smooth some sauce in the bottom of the baking dish, add a layer of veggies, sprinkle on some cheese, and repeat, making sure cheese is also the last layer at the top.

Cover and place in a preheated 350F oven for 45 minutes. Or do what Bruce did: fire up the grill for indirect cooking and place it over the unheated portion of the grate in a medium-heat grill for about the same amount of time.

Then uncover and continue cooking until the sauce has reduced a bit, is bubbling a lot, and the cheese is starting to brown lightly, about 15 minutes. Make sure you let the thing stand 10 minutes or so before dishing it up.

There. An inexact recipe. And a darn fine meal. Great real food, nothing fake. Now how many grams of tomatoes was that?

Comments

[Kelly]

Great post. I stumbled upon your blog via Food Gal and love this post. I love recipes but will admit I rarely follow them. I use them more as a guideline and tweak things to suit my interests. That lasagna looks scrumptious.

[Julie]

i just read this for this first time. i am still laughing, because i can hear you actually having that conversation!! This looks yum and i think i might try it this weekend. Maybe i will call it special pizza and then Marlo will eat it. Yum.