Salt Cod Cakes
Let me tell you this: the very last thing I need in my life is some idiot locavore wagging a finger in my face, telling me how I must only eat in season. In my part of the world--rural New England--there's nothing in season right now. Not even eggs. The chickens have stopped laying with the loss of daylight. Nothing. Zip.
Which is why salt cod was invented. (Well, not because of the chicken part of all that.) It's a way to preserve the catch for the long winter: the fish so highly salted that it can't go bad. In other words, the only way to eat locally in a world of snow.
Isn't it funny that something that was created as a means of survival has now got high-falutin' culinary aspirations? We can even find salt cod at our local supermarket these days!
The other night, Bruce made cod cakes. And boy, were they a wintery hit! But I should warn you that this takes planning. You have to start a day ahead.
Put 1 pound salt cod in a big bowl, cover with water, and refrigerate 24 hours, changing the water at least 2 times. Why? Oh, that osmatic pressure thing, same as the cider-cured ham. You've got to get the salt back out of the fish. And to do that, you have to keep changing the water in the bowl because as more salt leaches out, the water then comes into equilibrium with the fish, causing the osmatic process to stop. Thus, change the water.
OK, so now you're ready. Steam 1 pound peeled Russet or baking potatoes. Just set them in a vegetable steamer over an inch or so over simmering water, cover the pot, reduce the heat to low, and simmer about 20 minutes, until you can pierce them easily with a fork.
Meanwhile, cook 6 finely chopped medium scallions and 3 thinly sliced celery ribs in a tablespoon or so of unsalted butter until the onion turns translucent.
Chop the hot potatoes into 1/2-inch cubes and put them in a bowl. Dump in the contents of the skillet. Add 2 large eggs, 1 cup panko breadcrumbs, 2 teaspoons stemmed thyme, 1 teaspoon dry mustard, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and several dashes hot red pepper sauce, like Tabasco sauce.
Drain the cod and rinse it very well. Bring a small pot of water to a boil, then poach the cod for 3 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink. Why this step even after you've soaked the fish? To remove any last traces of salt and get cleaner, purer water back into the cells. Plus, you need to tenderize that fish a bit. It has been the Dead Sea for quite a while now.
Now chop the cod into small bits, about the size of the potato pieces, and add these to the bowl. Mash this up a bit and form it into cakes, patting them into shape between your palms. The mixture should make about 6--even 8 if you want them a little thinner. Thicker will make softer, more luxurious cakes; thinner, more crunch--because you're going to drop them in a skillet to fry them!
Melt 1 tablespoon unsalted butter with 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet. Add the cakes and fry until brown and crisp on both sides, about 6 to 8 minutes, turning once.
And that's it. Winter fare. The only way they used to do it. And a darn fine dinner these days with a green salad on the side.
Mark Scarbrough | Posted on Thursday, February 4, 2010 at 10:15PM locavore, salt cod, salt cod cakes, winter 
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Reader Comments (6)
those look great! i love fish cakes that have a lot of green. i wish i could make panko at home. my store has it, but it's kinda pricey and i'm just that kind of cheapskate.
Oh YUM! I love these, and will order the Portuguese equivalent, bolinhos de bacalhau, whenever I get the chance. It never occurred to me to make them before - thank you for the inspiration!
Dana: The green is great--but if you ask me, the crunchy and saltiness are even better. Love them for dinner.
Celia: Yes, the Portuguese version is actually far better--if also pricier. A real treat.
I grew up in newfoundland, on the east coast of Canada, where salt cod can be bought in nearly every market, gas station, convenience store, or even from trucks on the side of the road. It was a staple food for most of Newfoundland's history, and an important part of the trade between us and jamacia, who'd send us molasses and rum in exchange for our tasty codfish.
Cod cakes bring back lots of memories for me, it's nice to see some new recipes to try. Thanks!
Bridge: Did you know Newfoundland is one of my favorite places on earth? Indeed. Love Rocky Harbor. Love the whole thing. I can't WAIT to go back. Maybe this summer. Seems a great 50th birthday present to spend some time among the Newfies.
Food Blog list is so hot and cool having a crunchy crunchy food in it but i prefer salty fish at dinner time with very very green salad having it