Rhubarb Crisp

Have I told you this? Besides being a cookbook writer and all-around eater, I'm also a news junky. I read several papers a morning, follow a whole host of political blogs of all persuasions.

So I was a little irritated by that grouchy op ed from E J Dionne in this morning's Washington Post. Yes, it's Memorial Day here in the U. S. And yes, it's about honoring our war dead. And yes, it's important.

But no, I'm not laying the bunting over graves today. I'm doing what most Americans are doing: enjoying the first taste of summer bliss, of the peace that passeth hot weather. It seems to me that's a great way to honor those who have died: I'm at peace in the world they helped to create. I'm not going to argue just wars or unjust wars today. But soldiers die hoping that those left behind will live in some sort of peace and contentment. Politicians and bureaucrats go to war for other reasons, many of them not worthy of celebration. But soldiers die for hope. And today, in the sunshine, enjoying the beautiful weather, gardening and working in the yard, I think I'm honoring that hope. The peace that passeth hot weather.

Bruce is about it his own way--which mostly means cooking great food, his peace, about like this rhubarb crisp, a fantastic treat this time of year.

One warning before we get started, this is going to make a lot. Enough for a deep 11-inch round sauteuse pan (as he did it) or a deep, 10-inch square baking dish.

OK, first set the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350F.

Next, mix all this in a big bowl: 3 pounds sliced rhubarb (about 1/2-inch thick slices), 2 1/4 cups sugar, 4 1/2 tablespoons instant tapioca, 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, 2 teaspoons vanilla extract, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir all this together, then set it aside for 10 minutes as the rhubarb begins to weep and melt the tapioca bits.

Instant tapioca? It's a really old-fashioned way to make a pie or crisp, a thickener for the filling that's way less gummy than cornstarch. You can find it in the baking aisle of almost all supermarkets. My grandmother used to make her pies with it--and so I've gotten Bruce hooked on the stuff: rich and delicious.

But it does need to soften a bit before it hits the heat. Thus, the sitting around at room temperature, as here.

As the rhubarb filling sits and weeps, mix all this together in a second bowl: 1 cup all-purpose flour, 1 cup rolled oats (do not use quick-cooking or steel-cut), 1 cup chopped pecans, 3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar, 1/2 cup toasted pecan oil, 1/4 cup maple syrup, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

About those nuts: you can substitute another nut--walnuts, skinned hazelnuts, almonds--but then swap out the nut oil to match the nut: toasted walnut oil with walnuts, for example.

Also, toasted pecan oil is quite strong. If you fear too big a wallop of flavor, use 1/4 cup toasted pecan oil and 1/4 cup toasted walnut oil.

Oh, and this: I had to show you how Bruce chops nuts. I love this. He seals them in plastic bags, then he goes at them with a rolling pin, thwacking them repeatedly to chop them into little pieces. I think these are in their original bag, sealed inside a zip-closed plastic bag. One hint: don't take out your marital frustrations. Just whack them rather gently but decidedly. And watch the bag--it can split open.

OK, pour the rhubarb filling into that 11-inch, oven-safe, deep sauteuse pan or a deep 10-inch square baking pan. (You can also use an 8 x 12 baking dish, although this size can be pretty tough to find.)

Sprinkle the nut topping evenly over the fruit filling.

Put the thing in the oven and bake until the filling is bubbling up between the bits of crunchy topping and that topping itself is browned nicely, about 45 minutes.

Cool it on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before serving (the topping will get crunchier as it sits) or up to 6 hours. And what to serve it with? Ah, just wait until tomorrow. 

Comments

[Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial]

Wow, that's a pretty flash crumble, compared to the flour, butter and sugar I normally use! Hehehe...Bruce smashes nuts like a pro!