Try This: Root
We were down in Chapel Hill last weekend, teaching a class on our favorite piggish backside at Southern Season. We also had a great dinner at Lantern, where Asian concepts are sieved through Western traditions. Not fusion, more a mix of techniques than tastes.
Afterwards, we glanced over the dessert menu and saw this spirit listed among the digestifs. "That'll get you in trouble," our waiter said.
Since we had to get up early to teach and trouble wasn't on the menu, we skipped a pour but did look up the product online while we were still at the table. (Isn't the modern world odd?) In fact, Bruce ordered two bottles right on the spot.
I tried it last night. Fantastic. It's made from birch bark, smoked black tea, cinnamon, wintergreen, spearmint, clove, anise, orange, lemon, nutmeg, allspice, and cardamom. It's like root beer for adults. Very adults. You could get in trouble with this stuff. Seriously. Forget root beer schnapps. Blech. This stuff is sophisticated, elegant, and downright wicked. With that pedigree, it's going to become a staple around here.
It's made by a consortium called "Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction." How can you not love a group that makes a Walter Benjamin reference? Seriously. To know more, click here. You'll find out how to order your own bottle--various state regulations apply--or you'll be armed with info to prod your local liquor store into getting this crazy-good hooch for you.
Is it real food? Yep, you bet. Just be responsible, kids. And other than that, savor all the big flavors you can find. Even in after-dinner drinks. Who's up for a roaring fire?





















2 Comments
Reader Comments (2)
So I know you found this under apertifs, but would you consider mixing this with anything? I love the sound of it and would drink it on it's own but my wife loves rootbeer and I don't know if she'd appreciate it straight up. It looks like a really great find, thanks for sharing!
Noah: I've seen on their website various cocktails made with it. I'm sure they're fine, but I'm not much of a cocktail person. It is root beer--but it isn't. The flavors are way more sophisticated. Lots of smoked black tea. I'm telling you, this is fine stuff.
M.