Mushroom Farro Risotto
We got a new stove! Pretty sweet. A big, ol' six-burner, KitchenAid professional range with a convection oven and some serious BTUs. Bruce is so excited, he can hardly contain himself.
He had to give it a test-drive last night, so he made an old favorite around here: pressure-cooker risotto.
Do you use a pressure cooker? Have you recently? I'd love to hear your comments--or fears. It's one of the best tools you can own. I can talk more about them, if you'd like. I'm almost as big an evangelist for pressure cookers as I am for goat!
Last night, he made our risotto, not with Arborio rice, but with farro, a whole-grain wheat, popular in Italy. There are varietals and even controversies among foodies about farro (see here). For this recipe, you want a short or medium grain--although the length of the grain is not of supreme importance to the success of this dish. However, note this: farro comes in "perlato" (pearled) varieties which is the whole-grain wheat equivalent to pearled barley as well as a "semi-perlato" (semi-pearled) variety, with the bran scored and more of those essential, whole-grain nutrients intact. Natch, we always choose the semi-perlato version. Perlato farro becomes too gummy in this technique.
There's not much more to this simple recipe. So let's fire up that stove.
First, heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil in a large pressure cooker--or a Dutch oven or a small soup pot if you don't want to use the pressure cooker. Add 2 chopped yellow onions, 2 chopped carrots, and 2 minced garlic cloves. Stir this over the heat until the onion softens, about 4 minutes.
Stir in 6 ounces (170 grams) thinly sliced shiitake mushroom caps. Don't use those shiitake stems--they're too fibrous for words. You want this thing as creamy as possible. Stir these over the heat a few minutes until they soften a bit.
Now add 1 1/2 cups (270 grams) semi-perlato (or semi-pearled) farro, 1 teaspoon dried thyme, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon saffron. Stir this over the heat for a couple of minutes to get a jump on softening that farro bran before the liquids get added.
Dump in 1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine or dry vermouth. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring the wine to a full simmer, scraping up any browned bits on the pot's bottom. Let the stuff keep boiling until the wine has reduced by about two-thirds.
Souse the whole pot or pan with 1 quart (900 ml) reduced-sodium vegetable broth. Now the paths diverge. If you're using a pressure cooker, lock the lid in place and bring the thing to high, rockin' pressure over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat so the pressure is stable but intense, the valve rocking gently, and cook at high pressure for 8 minutes.
If you've used the saucepan or pot, bring the mixture to a full boil, then cover and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 35 minutes. Then uncover the pan and continue cooking, stirring very often, until the farro is tender, about 15 more minutes.
Back to the pressure cooker. After it's 8 minutes at high pressure, use the quick-release method to undo the lid. In other words, haul the whole thing to the sink and run cold water over the contraption until the pressure valve disengages (or whatever system your pot uses to tell you that the pressure inside has returned to normal--read the manufacturer's instructions if you're not sure). Unlock the lid and return the pot to medium-high heat. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring often, until thickened somewhat (it will set up more as it cools).
That's about it. You can stir in some grated Parmigiano-Reggiano to taste. Or add a little cream, up to 1/2 cup (120 ml). Or simply taste it for salt and have at it. If you've never had creamy farro, you're in for a treat. Mine's ready for a green salad--or just about anything off the grill.
Mark Scarbrough | Posted on Monday, April 25, 2011 at 4:55PM | in Comfort Food, Grains, Main Courses, Vegetarian
Reader Comments (10)
I'd be up for learning more about pressure cookers. I am a little intimated from my childhood view of them, but as a single working mom, I'm interested in ways that I can make real food for my family when I don't have a lot of time. The farro looks wonderful, by the way...I'm ready to try a new grain!
Laura: It's hard to even talk about pressure cookers without mentioning the fabulous Lorna Sass, the queen of the device. She's written some wonderful books on cooking with pressure cookers. But for now, I can tell you this: modern pressure cookers have many safeguards; it's almost impossible for them to blow up. There are gaskets around the rim which blow out when the pressure goes haywire. Yes, a mess on the stove--but no explosions. And we've never blown a gasket in all the years of using them. They are tools, and so you should read the manufacturer's instructions before using one. But you can whip up risotto in 8 minutes! That used to be our go-to, after-the-movies dinner. And you can make chili, bean soup, and even a whole grain breakfast porridge in no time flat. Unsoaked beans to soup in about an hour--which is not a weeknight thing but is certainly quicker than the overnight soak and then the three-hour simmer. Sold yet?
M.
I am from the same school as Laura it seems. Growing up they seemed so dangerous and then I never revisited the idea as an adult. I have been looking at them though because I want to start canning some veggies and apparently a pressure canner (my understanding is that it is just a really big pressure cooker) is necessary if you don't have an acidic recipe. That, and I would love to make homemade food for our puppies which would be easier with a pressure cooker. So,..I've prattled on, but really just wanted to say I am a little afraid but totally interested. That risotto could put me over the edge. :)
So, I live at 6500 feet which means there are some things I can't make without a pressure cooker. I have a fancy electric one with a browning unit and it is probably my best friend!
lovely risotto recipe, I'll definitely try it..
I grew up in a kitchen with the constant hissing of a pressure cooker in the background. Black Beans with pork hocks, brisket, potatoes to mash as an afterthought. My father once gave one to a couple as a wedding gift and even included an evening lesson where he knocked out 3 or 4 dishes and dessert (bizarre, but it's the world I know). I have a pressure cooker and I use it fairly regularly. It's the oppositie of a slow cooker, but it's a super effective tool whether you're a weekend warrior in the kitchen or knocking together nuts and bolts meals during the week. I like that you guys brought this tool to the forefront because a lot of people are afraid of them, my sisters included who grew up in the same kitchen. Watch out for the few things you can't do in the pressure cooker, split peas, applesauce, pastas...frothing things.
I'm new to the blogging thing and I found your site through fine cooking. I like what you guys are doing!
Terry: Fear not. You'll have soup in minutes, stew in under an hour. And darn tasty, too.
RMW: I LOVE that you use it at your altitude. I'm trying to get my sister-in-law to get one--and she's at about 7000 feet in CO.
Lincoln: Welcome here. You bet: we love the pressure cooker. It's a great tool. Seriously. I, too, grew up in a home with one constantly buzzing.
M.
We have not used a pressure cooker in years but are open to the idea. Your comments are very encouraging to do so.
I really liked your recipe and the use of farro as a main ingredient. Farro is a wonderful whole grain that looks like spelt but is not the same as spelt. Farro has been called the "Grain of Legions" because of its rich nutrients especially for anyone seeking a source of proteins, low fat and fiber.
We will try your recipe, sounds delicious. Thank you for sharing. Nice photos.
Just got one of Lorna Sass's books from the library - OMG! I can embrace anything that will cut my time in the kitchen and the recipes sound delicious! Guess what the cats are getting me for Mothers' Day? Yup :)))) The only time I remember it going at home was Mom making a whole chicken, shredding it, thickening the liquid and adding curry powder and serving it over rice. It was one of our favorites...
Lizabeth: Hurray! Lorna's books are fantastic!
M.
I made this tonight after buying some farro (which I never had before). I substituted a leek for one of the onions and used chicken stock. Yum, yum, yum! I love my pressure cooker and love this recipe! (I also love Lorna Sass' books and have several of them).