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    DANCING WITH A COLLIE

    brought on no doubt by that empty bottle of wine on top of the fridge

    THE ULTIMATE SHRIMP BOOK

    A one-book compendium for America's favorite seafood

    THE ULTIMATE ICE CREAM BOOK

    The book that started a whole career. A quarter million copies in print and still going strong!

    Entries in fish (9)

    Friday
    Mar122010

    Coconut Shellfish Curry

    I know: we've already done a coconut curry fish dish on the blog. Listen, don't be a food whore, just in for a series of one-night stands with your recipes. You gotta settle in for some relationships. Because they change over time. And morph. And grow. That's the very essence of life. Cooking, too.

    So today's from-the-sea curry is a different take, a twist on the last one on the blog: a different curry paste, shellfish, some green beans. This one's also more aromatic--and more luxurious. It's just the thing as winter morphs into spring.

    Click to read more ...

    Wednesday
    Mar102010

    Salmon with Crisp Potatoes and Olives

    Ah, the lowly salmon fillet. It's the boneless skinless chicken breast of our day: a cliché, really. One that gets a tad tired. Or tiring. Whatever. It can be decidedly dull. But stocked with omega-3s, it's real food, a high-nutrition feast. How then to make it exciting?

    I've been puzzling on this and I think I've come up with one delicious solution. Delicious enough that Bruce and I have had it for dinner now on two Tuesdays running. I had to share it with you: a skillet sauté for salmon fillets with potatoes and olives that get crisp.

    Yes, even the olives. You really let them go. The potatoes, too. Until you have this crisp, salty bed for the salmon. Pure bliss. I sucked mine down last night with a glass of Coffaro Fresco. (If you don't know about the fantastic wines from the Coffaros in California, then check them out here. They'll drop ship right to your house. Plus, Pat's a pleasure to get to know!)

    OK, so here's how to get the job done.

    Click to read more ...

    Thursday
    Jan212010

    Fish and Kale Stew

    Sometimes, simpler is better. Although I often forget it. I get carried away. Call it enthusiasm. Or rank stupidity. (Wait--aren't those often the same thing?) Yesterday, Bruce and I were on a New Haven TV show: Connecticut Style. And yes, I got carried away. And as a recompense, received my first bleep on air. After ten years , it was bound to happen sometime. Because I get carried away. If you want to see the hijinks, check out the clip here.

    So what does all this have to do with this fish stew, made with shrimp and cod as well as sturdy kale, one of winter's delights? Well, for one thing, a simple stew like this is not really me. (Just wait until you see what's up next week on this blog, my friend!) But it's what I crave in all my windy fandango: simplicity. 

    No doubt about it, I'm baroque. To say the least. By contrast, Bruce is steady, straight-on. Mozart to my counterpoint. Poor guy, he has to endure endless days of Bach, particularly when I've pulled out the overdrive on the writing mode. (The first-ever book on goat, anyone? I've got Bach's Cantata #37 blasting right now, the speakers only inches away.)

    When it gets like this--just as it was on that TV show the other day--he sort of brings the whole thing back to reality. And does the best thing he could: he feeds me comfort food. Like a great fish stew. Could anything be better?

    Click to read more ...

    Friday
    Nov272009

    Coconut Fish Curry

    We've had a wonderful two weeks in the South Seas, going down the Chilean fjords, around the horn of South America, and now out into the Atlantic to the Falklands, Uruguay, and Argentina. We've been teaching cooking classes aboard Holland America's Veednam all the while, paella and cookies and lasagna, for crowds and for small, private groups. (The photo is of the audience gathering in the cooking theater for one of our demos.)

    One of our favorite dishes we do in these cooking classes has always been a simple coconut curried fish. The dish lets us teach the secrets to making a good curry blend, as well as a simple way to make fish more enjoyable come dinnertime.

    But you don't have to go on a cruise with us (although it would be nice). Here's the recipe: start by making a simple curry paste. Crush two 2-inch pieces of lemongrass under a heavy pot on a cutting board, then put them in a mini food processor or a spice grinder. Add 1 small seeded jalapeno or serrano chile, 2 halved medium garlic cloves, 4 whole cloves (the dried spice), 2 tablespoons cumin seeds, 2 teaspoons ground coriander, 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, and 2 teaspoons turmeric. Grind these up until they make a fine, powdery paste, more dry than wet.

    It's too much curry paste for this dish, but you can save it back in the fridge for future stews, braises, and other curries. Keep it covered for up to 4 months.

    OK, preheat the oven to 400F. Place 1 1/2 pounds thick-fleshed fish like cod or hake in a large sauté pan. Now pour in enough white wine to come about halfway up the fish pieces in the pan. There's no real measurement here--just eyeball it.

    Remove the fish and set the pan over high heat. Add 2 chopped medium scallions, about 6 ounces thinly sliced shiitake mushroom caps, and 1 1/2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger. Bring it to a full simmer--then add 2 to 4 teaspoons of the curry paste, depending on how strongly flavored you like the dish. You might start with the lower amount the first time, just until you get the hang of it.

    Cover the pan, reduce the heat to low, and cook at a slow simmer for 5 minutes.

    Place the fish back in the pan, cover it, and bring back to a simmer over medium-high heat, usually in just a few seconds. Place the pan in the oven and cook until the fish will flake with gently scraped with a fork, about 7 minutes per each inch of thickness.

    Remove the pan from the oven--it's hot!--and transfer the fish to a serving plate. Set the pan back over high heat and bring to a full simmer. Stir in 1/4 cup coconut milk, 2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves, and 1 tablespoon soy sauce. Pour this sauce over the fish and serve at once--with rice, of course. A stick white rice like sushi rice is best. But you want to keep up every drop of that sauce.

    Thursday
    Jul232009

    Paella, Part 2

    So without much ado, let's keep cooking paella, just as we did in the hands-on classes aboard Holland America's smallest and most elegant ship, the Prinsendam. We've already got the protein browned in the olive oil, we've softened the aromatics in the pan, and we've added the wine, boiling it down to concentrate the flavors while scraping up all that lovely brown flavor in the pan.

    Click to read more ...

    Wednesday
    Jul222009

    Paella, Part 1

    Finally, home. We had a wonderful time on the cruise. (Here's another shot of the little fishing village of Portree on the Isle of Skye, Scotland, one of my new favorite places on earth).

    But I've been away from this blog--and work, too--for way too long. I'm sorry for my absence here. The seas were rough. Rough like I've never seen them. We couldn't make it in to two ports because of gale-force winds. One night, they told guests to put trash cans next to their beds--"just in case." As we bobbed around in incredible lightening storms, the ship couldn't hold a steady satellite connection. I started several posts, then the connection would fail and all would evaporate into the internet ether. Sigh.

    So now, back on dry land (but why is the house rocking?), I'm ready to post a full-on, two-set entry on paella know-how. We taught hands-on paella classes aboard the ship, using the technique from our latest book, COOKING KNOW-HOW. Here's what we did:

    Click to read more ...

    Thursday
    May282009

    Salmon Gravlax

    Why do I think of it as a summer dish? Maybe because it's served cold? Because it's a make-ahead for the days when you don't want to waste a drop of sunlight? Because we have house guests in the summer and are always looking for a quick meal?

    Here's the perfect breakfast or starter with drinks on the deck: a little sliced gravlax on a piece of rye toast with some cream cheese. Never fat-free, of course. Mother didn't raise a fool. I'd rather have less of the real, rather than more of the fake. The real is so satisfying, so pleasurable. And who doesn't need more pleasure?

    Click to read more ...

    Thursday
    Apr092009

    Gefilte Fish

    One of the great things about this career is that I get to rediscover things that I once thought that were a tad . . . how shall we say . . . blech. Like gefilte fish.

    Having grown up in the Danish modern '60s, I thought a lot of things came from cans and jars. Like gefilte fish. (Someday, I'll tell you my Vienna Sausage story. Or as they say where I'm from: "Vie-EE-nuh SAW-suhj.")

    Last night, as every year, Bruce made the real thing for our seder. Yes, gefilte fish is a bit of a saga to make. Don't forget these things were "invented" to "save work" on the Sabbath--in this case, to save the work of separating the fish from its bones. Someone could thus make an inexpensive fish dish in advance. Of course, the work-saver turned out to be laborious. My guess is it's because the people who made the rules weren't the ones who had to implement said rules.

    Which brings me back to real food. It's always easier to go the jarred route. But nothing beats the original. And if you're going to celebrate the redemption of an entire race, I think you should go the whole route. (I originally wrote "go whole hog" here but thought maybe it wasn't quite right for Passover.)

    So here's what Bruce did:

    Click to read more ...

    Wednesday
    Feb252009

    Oven-Fried Tilapia Fillets

    When we were testing the recipes and techniques for COOKING KNOW-HOW, we saved up the fried recipes for one weekend: pan-frying, of course, but also oven-frying, that (slightly) more healthy way to get the crunch without quite so much fat.

    Saved them back? Well, yes. I suppose we were a little reticent. Frying? Even in the oven? Aren't we the guys who write the Every Day Gourmet column for weightwatchers.com?

    Listen, we fell upon that food like Hollywood D-listers on gift bags, two fry-deprived guys who usually roast, steam, or grill everything because, well, you know. But there was no stopping us. We mowed through the stuff. Oh, we kids of healthier times. We've clearly forgotten the pleasures of the crunch.

    Last night, we again made the oven-fried fish fillets from the book, one recipe in the overall, oven-frying section that explains the science and art of the technique.

    Here's the kitchen shtick that itched our craving:

    Click to read more ...