The Bliss That Is Tian

We're nearing the end of the growing season in New England. I went to our CSA yesterday and picked up what was purported to be "the last" of the cherry tomatoes. I also got some of the first of this season's potatoes, a late-summer luxury, creamy and delicious.

And I picked up a dozen eggs. Because real eggs from an honest farm are one of life's more exquisite pleasures--although not at first. These were pretty filthy with what's politely called "chicken dirt." Bruce washed them and put them in a large bowl of water with a teaspoon of bleach to get rid of some of the more persnickety problems. But the task is so worth it--if only because he then used those eggs in a potato and greens tian.

A tian? Not exactly an everyday dish, eh? We were rather ignorant of the Provençal wonder until we went to friends' house for dinner earlier this summer. They served it--and we were undone. Isn't it wonderful to learn new things, even when you've been thinking about food for so many years?

Well, we've never looked back. Tian has become a go-to standard.

A tian is actually the name for the round dish that this eggy wonder is baked in. Sort of like "tagine"--it's the pot and the meal cooked in it. But Bruce uses a large skillet--everything works out fine. He mixes eggs with herbs, potatoes, and greens to create this wonderful treat. Oh, and anchovies. Lots of anchovies. But more on that after the jump.

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Roasted Kale

I'm nuts about leafy greens. Turnip, mustard, collard, chard. Bring 'em on.

But I didn't know until recently that I could roast kale. I'd only had it long-stewed.

The difference in the techniques is something of a revelation. Especially because the leaves get a little crunchy. Wow. I've now been making it this way for months.

Best of all, it's so easy. Here's how:

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Fish and Kale Stew

Sometimes, simpler is better. Although I often forget it. I get carried away. Call it enthusiasm. Or rank stupidity. (Wait--aren't those often the same thing?) Yesterday, Bruce and I were on a New Haven TV show: Connecticut Style. And yes, I got carried away. And as a recompense, received my first bleep on air. After ten years , it was bound to happen sometime. Because I get carried away. If you want to see the hijinks, check out the clip here.

So what does all this have to do with this fish stew, made with shrimp and cod as well as sturdy kale, one of winter's delights? Well, for one thing, a simple stew like this is not really me. (Just wait until you see what's up next week on this blog, my friend!) But it's what I crave in all my windy fandango: simplicity. 

No doubt about it, I'm baroque. To say the least. By contrast, Bruce is steady, straight-on. Mozart to my counterpoint. Poor guy, he has to endure endless days of Bach, particularly when I've pulled out the overdrive on the writing mode. (The first-ever book on goat, anyone? I've got Bach's Cantata #37 blasting right now, the speakers only inches away.)

When it gets like this--just as it was on that TV show the other day--he sort of brings the whole thing back to reality. And does the best thing he could: he feeds me comfort food. Like a great fish stew. Could anything be better?

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